If you’ve ever avoided adding zips to bags because they looked too complicated — this will change your mind. It’s much easier than most sewists think, and incredibly satisfying to learn.
Adding a recessed zip to your tote bag gives it a polished, secure, and professional finish — and once you’ve mastered it, you’ll never want to go back. This post introduces the key materials and first steps to help you get started. If you’d like the full printable version with step-by-step instructions and photos, you can now download it as a beautifully formatted PDF.
🧵 Want the Full Step-by-Step Photo Tutorial?
You can now download the full printable version of this recessed zip tutorial as an ad-free PDF for just £2.99. It includes:
- 11 clear sewing steps
- Full-colour photo walkthrough
- Printable, easy-to-follow format
- Bonus tips for a clean finish
Materials Needed
To get started, gather the following:
- Outer tote bag prepared and ready for your lining
- Lining fabric (adjusted as described below)
- An extra-long zip (longer than the width of your bag)
- Two outer fabric strips (3 inches deep and the same width as your bag)
- Thread, pins/clips, scissors, and a sewing machine
If you’re looking for design inspiration, take a look at our handmade tote bag collection — they all pair beautifully with a recessed zipper finish.
Step 1: Prepare Your Tote Bag
Outer Fabric
Your outer tote bag should be made up to your chosen size. This is the time to add any features like pockets, reinforced bases, or compartments.
Lining Fabric
Cut each piece of lining fabric the same width but 2 inches shorter than the outer fabric. This leaves room for the zip inset.
Step 2: Prepare the Zipper Strips
Cut two outer fabric strips measuring 3 inches deep and the width of your bag. On both ends of each strip — and on the top of your lining pieces — cut out small squares measuring ¾ inch (2 cm). These cut-outs help shape the corners later.
✂️ Ready to Sew the Zip?
The next steps — from attaching the zip all the way through to boxing corners, assembling the bag, and topstitching — are included in the full PDF version.
👉 Download the PDF Tutorial for £2.99 to get the complete step-by-step guide with full photo instructions.
FAQs
Q: Can I use a shorter zipper than the width of my bag? A: No — for this method, you’ll want a zip longer than your bag width. Continuous zips are ideal because you can add the slider later.
Q: What type of fabric works best for tote bags? A: Medium to heavyweight fabrics like canvas, denim, or upholstery fabric are great for the outer. For linings, use cotton or polycotton.
Q: Do I need a special sewing machine foot for the zipper? A: A zipper foot makes the job much easier and gives neater results.
Q: Can I add extras like pockets or compartments? A: Absolutely — add these before you assemble the lining and outer fabric.
Final Thoughts
Adding a recessed zip gives your tote bag a more polished and professional finish. This is a fantastic skill to learn and adds extra value to your handmade creations.
👉 Download the Full PDF Tutorial Here if you'd like to follow all the steps with photo guidance, offline access, and a print-friendly format.
And for more ideas and inspiration, browse our handmade tote bag collection.
Happy sewing!