Adding a zip to a tote bag is a fantastic way to give it a polished and professional finish. It’s practical, secure, and a great skill to learn if you want to take your bag-making to the next level. In this step-by-step guide, I’ll show you exactly how to sew a zipper to your tote bag, complete with clear instructions and handy tips.
Materials Needed
To get started, gather the following:
- Outer tote bag prepared and ready for your lining.
- Lining fabric (adjusted as described below).
- An extra-long zip (longer than the width of your bag).
- Two outer fabric strips (3 inches deep and the same width as your bag).
- Thread, pins/clips, scissors, and a sewing machine.
If you’re looking for ideas, take a look at our handmade tote bag collection to see how different designs can bring your project to life, Our tote bags feature elegant designs that pair beautifully with a polished zipper finish.
Step 1: Prepare Your Tote Bag
Outer Fabric
Your outer tote bag should be prepared to your desired size. This is the stage to add any features like pockets, reinforced bases, or extra compartments.
Lining Fabric
Cut each piece of lining fabric the same width but 2 inches shorter than the outer fabric. This adjustment allows space for the zip inset.
Step 2: Prepare the Zipper Strips
Cut two outer fabric strips measuring 3 inches deep and the width of your bag. On both ends of each strip, and on the top of your lining pieces, cut out small squares measuring ¾ inch (2 cm). These cut-outs are essential for shaping the corners later.
Step 3: Attach the Zip to the Strips
Place the zip right side down on one fabric strip, aligning its edge with the raw edge of the fabric. Pin or clip it securely, ensuring the slider is out of the way, then sew along the edge.
Repeat the process to attach the zip to the second strip.
If you’re new to working with zips, this helpful guide from The Spruce Crafts offers additional tips and techniques to ensure a smooth sewing process.
Step 4: Attach the Zipper Assembly to the Lining
Lay your lining fabric right side up. Place the zipper assembly right side down on top of the lining, so the zip is sandwiched between the layers. Sew along the edge to secure it.
Repeat this process for the other side of the lining with the second zipper strip.
Step 5: Edge-Stitch the Zip
Push the seam allowances toward the zipper strips and edge-stitch close to the zip teeth. This step keeps the fabric flat and ensures the zip operates smoothly. It’s a small detail, but it makes a big difference in the final look.
Step 6: Stitch the Side Seams
With right sides together, pin or clip the sides of the lining together and sew the sides of the zip panel and the lining. Sew along the base leaving a gap big enough to turn your bag later.
Step 7: Box the Corners
Fold the fabric so the cut-out corners form a neat triangle. Open the seam allowance, stack the layers evenly, and sew straight across the top of the triangle.
Repeat this step on both sides. If your tote bag has a boxed base, box the bottom corners of the lining too.
Step 8: Assemble the Bag
Turn the outer bag right side out and leave the lining inside out. Place the outer bag inside the lining so the right sides are facing each other. Tuck the straps inside between the layers.
Align the top edges and side seams, then pin or clip them together.
Step 8: Sew the Top Edge
Sew around the top edge of the bag at a ⅝-inch (15 mm) seam allowance.
Step 10: Turn the Bag Right Side Out
Carefully pull the bag through the gap in the lining to turn it right side out. Once fully turned, sew the gap in the lining closed with a straight stitch.
Step 11: Topstitch for a Professional Finish
Push the lining inside the outer bag, ensuring the seams are smooth and even. Press the top edge flat, then topstitch around the edge at ¼ to ½ inch from the top to secure the layers. This step not only adds durability but also gives the bag a clean and polished look.
FAQs
Q: Can I use a shorter zipper than the width of my bag?
A: No, for this method, it’s recommended to use a zipper longer than the width of your bag. A longer zipper makes it easier to maneuver the slider during sewing. A continuous zipper is even better because the slider can be added after sewing, simplifying the process.
Q: What type of fabric works best for tote bags?
A: Medium to heavyweight fabrics like canvas, denim, or upholstery fabric are ideal for durability. For the lining, lighter fabrics such as cotton or polyester blends work well.
Q: How do I ensure my zipper lies flat?
A: Use sewing clips instead of pins to prevent shifting. Pressing the fabric after each step helps achieve a smooth, professional finish.
Q: Can I add extra features like pockets or compartments?
A: Absolutely! Customize your tote bag by adding pockets, compartments, or even reinforced bases during the preparation stage, before assembling the lining and outer fabric.
Q: Do I need a special sewing machine foot for the zipper?
A: A zipper foot is highly recommended for precise stitching along the zipper teeth. It ensures cleaner results and makes the process easier.
Final Thoughts
Learning how to make a tote bag with a zipper is a rewarding project that combines practicality and style. Whether you’re creating it for everyday use or as a thoughtful handmade gift, adding a zip gives your tote bag that extra touch of professionalism.
Our tote bags feature elegant designs that pair beautifully with a polished zipper finish. For more inspiration and design ideas, visit our handmade tote bag collection and start your next creative project today.
Happy sewing!
