Two handmade zipper pouches side by side, featuring bee-print fabric on the left and floral-print fabric on the right, both with 'Watership Down Crafts' labels, displayed on a neutral background.

Step by Step Guide - How to Sew Zipper Pouches Perfectly

I have been asked on a few occasions how I get the top of my Zipper Pouches so neat. Well, the answer is I sew tabs onto the zip before I attach it to the actual pouch so there’s no dents in the corners and the zip lays flatter and neater. Our zipper pouches feature these techniques for a professional finish

 In this guide, I’m going to show you the technique I use to add tabs to my zips. I will assume that you have a basic idea on how to make a zipper pouch and focus mainly on the tabs.

If you are not sure, you can find a guide on how to make a zipper pouch to Here (please note that this guide shows a different technique to sewing the zipper tabs)

Here’s What you’ll need:

  • 2 pieces of outer fabric cut to your desired size.
  • 2 pieces of lining fabric cut to the same size as your outer fabric.
  • 2 pieces of interlining (Optional) but if not using interlining, you may want to add interfacing to your outer fabric.
  • 1 nylon zip – longer than the top of your fabric.
  • 2 zipper tabs. The width of your tabs should be the same width as your zip. The length of the tab depends how deep you want your tab to be. I generally opt for ½ inch. Take the depth of your tab and multiply it by 4. This means that a ½ inch tab needs to be cut at 2inches. My zip is 1 inch wide so I will cut my tabs at 1 x 2 inches.

Determine the length of Zip

  • Measure across the top of your fabric and mark ½ inch (seam allowance) on either side. The distance between each mark is the length you need your zip to be.
  • Mark your zip to the correct length but do NOT cut it yet.
  • Cut off the stopper end if you’re using a pre-cut zip. – Make sure you cut straight across; you need a straight edge.
  • Make sure your zip pull is within the length of the zip you’re going to use.

  • Place one of your tabs, face down on top of the zip, making sure that the ends line up and clip in place.
  • Sew across the end of the zip and tab using a ½ inch seam allowance - Draw a stitch line if necessary because it’s important to be accurate here.

  • Baste stitch the other end of the zip, just inside the cutting line, to hold the zip closed.

  • Cut the zip along the measured cutting line.
  • Now add your second tab in exactly the same way you added the first.

  • Turn the zip over and fold the end of the tab to butt up against the end of the zip. Fold over a second time so that the edge almost meets the stitch line. You only need to finger press it and clip it to hold in place, do not stitch it down. Repeat with the other tab.

Sew in the Zip

  • Place your zip face down along the top edge of your outer fabric between the ½ inch seam allowance mark.

  • Sew the zip in place. Sew over the tabs and stop. There's no need to sew to the ends of the fabric into the seam allowance. Repeat with the other piece of outer fabric.

  • Now attach the lining so that the zip is sandwiched between the outer fabric and the lining, but this time sew right to the edge of the fabric. Repeat with other piece of lining.

 Press and Top Stitch

  • Lay the fabric flat with both pieces of outer fabric on top and the zip down the middle. Iron the fabric away from the zip and the turn it over and iron then lining side away from the zip.
  • Top stich around the zip using about 1/8-inch seam.

Sew it all up

  • Marry up the lining and outer fabric. Make sure that you push the zipper tab towards the lining and the top edges of the outer fabric line up and clip it to hold it all in place.

 

  • Sew all the way round with a ½ inch seam, leaving a gap at the bottom of the lining for turning.

NOTE: - When you get to the zipper tabs make sure that you don’t sew over them or catch them in your seam.

 

Turn the pouch the right way out and voila! Congratulations! you have a lovely, neat zip with no dents in the corners! 

FAQs

Q: Can I use a metal zipper for this technique?
A: Yes, but metal zippers require extra care to avoid breaking needles. Nylon zippers are easier to sew and recommended for beginners.

Q: What type of fabric works best for zipper pouches?
A: Medium-weight fabrics like cotton, canvas, or linen are ideal for durability. Pair them with a lightweight lining for structure.

Q: Why should I use zipper tabs?
A: Zipper tabs prevent dents in the corners, ensure the zipper lays flat, and give your pouch a professional, polished look.

Using sustainable fabrics make your handmade zipper pouches perfect eco-friendly gifts!

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