Even experienced sewists encounter problems, and beginners often face common sewing mistakes when learning to sew. This guide will help you troubleshoot sewing mistakes and provide solutions to keep your projects running smoothly.
For more foundational knowledge, check out our Sewing Glossary: Essential Terms Every Beginner Should Know to familiarise yourself with important sewing terms.
If you're new to sewing, A Beginner's Guide to Sewing provides an overview of essential sewing techniques, beginner-friendly sewing projects, and tips to help you get started.
General Troubleshooting Steps
Before diving into specific sewing mistakes, always follow these steps first:
- Rethread the sewing machine – Incorrect threading is a common cause of sewing problems. Make sure both the top thread and bobbin are threaded correctly.
- Check the bobbin placement – Ensure the bobbin is inserted properly and is running in the correct direction (refer to your sewing machine manual if unsure).
- Change the needle – A blunt, slightly bent, or damaged sewing needle can cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, or fabric puckering. Replace the needle if in doubt.
- Use high-quality, matching thread – Always use good-quality sewing thread and make sure the top thread and bobbin thread are the same brand and weight, even if the colours are different.
- Turn off and restart computerised sewing machines – If you are using a computerised sewing machine, switch it off, wait 60 seconds, and turn it back on. This often resets minor glitches.
- Clean the sewing machine – Remove any fluff, lint, or dust build-up from the bobbin case, feed dogs, and tension discs to prevent sewing issues.
If problems persist after these steps, refer to the specific sewing troubleshooting sections below.
1. Thread Tension Issues
Problem: Uneven stitches, loops, or puckered fabric caused by incorrect sewing machine tension. Fix:
- If stitches are too loose: Increase the tension slightly and test on scrap fabric.
- If fabric puckers: Reduce tension and ensure the correct sewing machine needle and thread combination.
- Check for lint build-up in the sewing machine tension discs, as this can affect stitch quality.
2. Skipped Stitches
Problem: The machine fails to catch stitches, leaving gaps in seams. Fix:
- Use the correct sewing needle for your fabric type (e.g., ballpoint needles for knits, universal for woven fabrics).
- Ensure the needle is inserted correctly with the flat side facing the proper direction (usually towards the back, but check your sewing machine manual).
- If using a walking foot or speciality presser foot, ensure it is attached correctly and moving freely.
3. Thread Nesting (Bird’s Nest Under Fabric)
Problem: A tangled mess of thread underneath the fabric. Fix:
- Hold the thread tails when starting a seam to prevent tangling.
- Check that the sewing thread spool is unwinding smoothly and not catching on the spool cap or holder.
4. Breaking Thread
Problem: Sewing thread constantly snaps while sewing. Fix:
- Ensure the correct thread weight is being used for the fabric type.
- Check for burrs or damage on the needle plate, bobbin case, or thread guides.
- Reduce the upper thread tension slightly if the thread is too tight.
- Ensure the thread is not old or dry, as aged thread becomes brittle and prone to breakage.
- Make sure the sewing machine needle size matches the thread weight; a needle that is too small for the thread can cause breakage.
5. Uneven Stitch Length
Problem: Stitches vary in length, creating an inconsistent seam. Fix:
- Ensure even pressure is applied to the fabric while guiding it through the machine.
- Adjust sewing machine stitch length settings based on fabric type and project.
- Avoid pulling or pushing fabric while sewing, as this can interfere with the machine’s natural feed mechanism.
6. Fabric Puckering
Problem: Fabric gathers or bunches while sewing. Fix:
- Reduce sewing machine tension settings to prevent excess pulling.
- Use the appropriate sewing needle size and thread for your fabric.
- Increase stitch length slightly for lightweight fabrics.
- Consider using a walking foot for tricky fabrics like lightweight silks or slippery knits.
- Stabilise delicate fabrics with interfacing or tissue paper when sewing.
7. Machine Not Stitching
Problem: The sewing machine runs, but no stitches are formed. Fix:
- Ensure the presser foot is lowered before sewing.
- Ensure the feed dogs are engaged and not lowered (some machines allow you to drop them for free-motion sewing).
- Check for an incorrectly wound or empty bobbin.
8. Needle Breakage
Problem: Needles break frequently while sewing. Fix:
- Use the correct sewing needle type and size for your fabric.
- Slow down when sewing over thick seams or bulky layers.
- Check for obstructions in the needle path, such as thick seams or pins.
- Use a stronger needle, such as a denim or leather needle, for heavy fabrics.
9. Sewing Machine Jamming
Problem: The machine stops moving or gets stuck. Fix:
- Turn off the machine and carefully remove any jammed thread.
- Check for tangled bobbin thread and clear any jams.
- Clean the feed dogs and remove lint, dust, and debris.
- Ensure the sewing machine handwheel turns freely before restarting.
- If the machine makes a grinding sound or remains jammed, inspect the bobbin case for misalignment.
- If using a drop-in bobbin system, ensure it is seated correctly before resuming sewing.
- Oil the sewing machine if required (check manual for compatibility).
Final Thoughts
By understanding and troubleshooting common sewing mistakes, you can avoid frustration and improve your sewing results. Keeping your sewing machine clean, using quality materials, and following best practices will help you sew with confidence!
For more sewing resources:
- Ultimate Sewing Glossary: Essential Terms Every Beginner Should Know – Understand key sewing terms.
- A Beginner's Guide to Sewing – Learn about sewing techniques, tools, and beginner-friendly projects.
Always test stitches on scrap fabric before starting a project, and don't be afraid to experiment with sewing machine settings to achieve the best results.
